23.5.15


We call it the tunnel to "Oz"

with that spec of blue at the end...

6 A.M.

San Francisco time .




All delicate blue that sunrise

just waiting

on the other side


and they are like knights,

braving the cold and the hour and the sea


and I feel awe

standing up here looking down on them

the boys I love

 the ritual I love

 on a dawn patrol day.



16.5.15


The first swell

in weeks

and everyone is happy..

And after it's pancakes and listening to the contest on the radio,

Chippa, Kolohe, John John, Kelly

the names are heard so often

they feel like my boys too. 


and by sunset they are bone tired

hanging in their tree


and  the little bits and pieces of the day

make me happy just to be 

part of it

19.4.15

10.4.15



last night
I dreamt 
you were coming from the sea
and 
then you looked up 
and waved to me


 the way you do sometimes
after a really good ride


and after
you were running
like you do
all of you
so free
and beautiful
on your way 
to all those things





waiting


just for you.




( rock photos, Live Wiesel )

31.3.15


it was cold
and windy
and I said I'll come and lie on the sand while you surf
and the day felt still, without people
despite the wind
and everything seemed like a film
and the whole day was put right again

26.3.15



We never forgot this dude.

It's the one time in my life I use that word.

...barely daylight and he surfed that big wooden long board like a god. 

He had a nip of whiskey when he got out of the cold Pacific, 

then lit that cigar as if he was the King

of something. 

I think he was the King of Awe.


24.3.15



Happy Birthday

to my father.

we are all still missing you...

K.O. Nelson 
24 March 1923 - 2 July 2013

28.2.15


there they were...

on a day when nature was giving up

so much beauty

for free


from morning

until night

we were bathing in some sort of glory.


and walking home

it felt like a little film

with the rocks

and the light

and love


and I was happy

just to follow in the trail of love


on the long walk home

up the hill.

11.2.15


LIFE DOES NOT TRAVEL

UPON A STRAIGHT

LINE...


yet in so many photos I have

you are

doing just that.


In the sky

and the earth

and the sound of the wind

there you still live, Walt.  

But that is not to say I have ever grown used to your leaving...

nor your walking down that straight line

as if you knew

just where

you were going.



FRIEND

PHOTOGRAPHER

TRAVELLER

MUSE


2 August 1946 - 12 February 2008







4.2.15


...and as we rounded the bend in the hill

we caught our breath

and stopped the car

and stayed awhile

for this special 

blue


1.2.15


We call it

"The painting that looks like eternity"

( the view )


It has been a two - swim January day

here in Northern California.

He has taken the vintage "cactus" board out for a ride

and

 we feel  

 content

and

 cold - water - washed - out - happy...

18.1.15

après- prefix informalhumorous coming after in time, typically specifying a period following an activity: a low-fat, après-workout snack.ORIGIN mid 20th cent.French, literally after, used in combinations on the pattern of après-ski.

Apres surf...




11.1.15


Goodbye 

to

La Dolce Vita



Anita Ekberg

24 September 1931 - 11 January 2015


8.1.15


It felt cold

but everyone went surfing anyway

and then it got dark

and I made risotto with dried porcini 

sent from Italy 

and they went home tired

but happy

for these winter nights






5.1.15


They are halfway

between this world 

and the next.

I teasingly call them the feral children...

they climb and swim and camp

and laugh wild and hard

oblivious about this 

moment

so 

free.



( photo : liv wisely )




3.1.15

29.12.14


from my son's playlist

one of our

"Going to school songs "

26.12.14

happy boxing day...

that's the beauty of music

you can have amy winehouse and this

all living in your heart. 

24.12.14

A. C. Benson recalled: ‘My father arranged from ancient sources a little service for Christmas Eve – nine carols and nine tiny lessons, which were read by various officers of the Church, beginning with a chorister, and ending, through the different grades, with the Bishop’. The idea had come from G. H. S. Walpole, later Bishop of Edinburgh. Almost immediately other churches adapted the service for their own use...it has been broadcast annually, even during the Second World War, when the ancient glass (and also all heat) had been removed from the Chapel. 




( for my father whom I would ring from London each year to say "...are you listening ?")

23.12.14

A tune a day

until 

2015


22.12.14


Farewell

Joe Cocker

20 May 1944 - 22 December 2014

"Would you believe in love at first sight?

Yes I'm certain cause it happens all the time.

What do you see when you turn out the light?

I can't tell you but I know it's mine..."


( A little Help From My Friends )

19.12.14


The road is closed

a mudslide.

In California

these things happen.

...and despite my despair at the mountain pass

 our only way in 

and out

I see now it has it's own reward 

this  beauty .


13.12.14


the storm arrived...
and  despite it's ferocity
it looked like a Japanese 
brush painting

but his favourite tree came down
the one where I remember him small
and unformed
sitting high up in the branches 
watching the ships pass
on the horizon

and for that,
 I wept.

30.11.14

SLEEPING 

WITH 

ONE 

EYE

OPEN


1934- 2014


“In a field/ I am the absence/ of field,  
This is/ always the case./ Wherever I am/ 

I am what is missing,

When I walk
I part the air
and always
the air moves in
to fill the spaces
where my body’s been.
We all have reasons
for moving.
I move
to keep things whole.





goodbye holiday...

see you next year

29.11.14

After the Thanksgiving Holiday...


a little repose


26.11.14

21.11.14

Farewell 


1931 - 2014


you left us with 

"the sound of silence"