24.7.15


THEY SEEM LIKE

A 1950'S

PAINTING

SUN BROWN AND SKINNY

SURFING UNTIL THEY CAN BARELY WALK HOME

SANDY AND SALT BAKED FREE

JUST THE WAY 

THINGS SHOULD BE

AT 16


16.7.15

and who are these
high summer pirates 
I asked myself 
on the way home...
enchanted

13.7.15

3.7.15

"my legs my feet
are covered in sea
the tide is low and a sandbar is my bed..."


29.6.15

23.6.15


“Here I came to the very edge 
where nothing at all needs saying, 
everything is absorbed through weather and the sea, 
and the moon swam back, 
its rays all silvered, 
and time and again the darkness would be broken 
by the crash of a wave, 
and every day on the balcony of the sea, 
wings open, fire is born, 
and everything is blue again like morning. ”

Pablo Neruda



9.6.15


mostly beautiful here...

 the sky and the sea 

the kind of blue

that is almost like a love affair. 

 All day long I look down upon small bands of surfers

floating

and waiting...





It could almost be 1969

or 2015...

the logs

 the hair

 the girl tagging along on the skateboard... 


and all of a sudden

it's summer

in

Northern California

7.6.15

26.5.15





Goodbye 


photographer

artist

witness

March 1940 - May 2015

She told the truth...

“I remember the first time I went out on the street to shoot pictures,” she told the magazine Communication Arts in 1997. “I was in downtown Philadelphia and I just took a walk and started making contact with people and photographing them, and I thought: ‘I love this. This is what I want to do forever.’ There was never another question.”

23.5.15


We call it the tunnel to "Oz"

with that spec of blue at the end...

6 A.M.

San Francisco time .




All delicate blue that sunrise

just waiting

on the other side


and they are like knights,

braving the cold and the hour and the sea


and I feel awe

standing up here looking down on them

the boys I love

 the ritual I love

 on a dawn patrol day.



16.5.15


The first swell

in weeks

and everyone is happy..

And after it's pancakes and listening to the contest on the radio,

Chippa, Kolohe, John John, Kelly

the names are heard so often

they feel like my boys too. 


and by sunset they are bone tired

hanging in their tree


and  the little bits and pieces of the day

make me happy just to be 

part of it

19.4.15

10.4.15



last night
I dreamt 
you were coming from the sea
and 
then you looked up 
and waved to me


 the way you do sometimes
after a really good ride


and after
you were running
like you do
all of you
so free
and beautiful
on your way 
to all those things





waiting


just for you.




( rock photos, Live Wiesel )

31.3.15


it was cold
and windy
and I said I'll come and lie on the sand while you surf
and the day felt still, without people
despite the wind
and everything seemed like a film
and the whole day was put right again

26.3.15



We never forgot this dude.

It's the one time in my life I use that word.

...barely daylight and he surfed that big wooden long board like a god. 

He had a nip of whiskey when he got out of the cold Pacific, 

then lit that cigar as if he was the King

of something. 

I think he was the King of Awe.


24.3.15



Happy Birthday

to my father.

we are all still missing you...

K.O. Nelson 
24 March 1923 - 2 July 2013

28.2.15


there they were...

on a day when nature was giving up

so much beauty

for free


from morning

until night

we were bathing in some sort of glory.


and walking home

it felt like a little film

with the rocks

and the light

and love


and I was happy

just to follow in the trail of love


on the long walk home

up the hill.

11.2.15


LIFE DOES NOT TRAVEL

UPON A STRAIGHT

LINE...


yet in so many photos I have

you are

doing just that.


In the sky

and the earth

and the sound of the wind

there you still live, Walt.  

But that is not to say I have ever grown used to your leaving...

nor your walking down that straight line

as if you knew

just where

you were going.



FRIEND

PHOTOGRAPHER

TRAVELLER

MUSE


2 August 1946 - 12 February 2008







4.2.15


...and as we rounded the bend in the hill

we caught our breath

and stopped the car

and stayed awhile

for this special 

blue


1.2.15


We call it

"The painting that looks like eternity"

( the view )


It has been a two - swim January day

here in Northern California.

He has taken the vintage "cactus" board out for a ride

and

 we feel  

 content

and

 cold - water - washed - out - happy...